Ploidy of Prairie Dawn

Graham,

I’haven’t grown Prairie Dawn but I’ve had Prairie Joy for the past couple of years. There wasn’t any winter die back last year but it was a very mild winter. David Z. rated the hardiness of the many roses at the Minnesota Landscape Arboretum (zone 4a) in three different years and each of those years Prairie Joy only rated a 3 out of 10 for winter hardiness. Whereas Prairie Dawn was either an 8 or 9 those same years. There are others who have used PJ quite a bit more than I have, I have only germinated OP seeds of it this year. But most if not all of those seedlings have flower buds on them. I attached a photo of the first to bloom. It has a hint of yellow and it could be a cross with Carefree Sunshine which is planted right next to PJ.

[attachment 1461 PrairieJoyOP-1-1800x600.jpg]

A note about the Mordens, from here in MN, referencing AtlasMD’s comment about them.

My family business is a retail nursery/greenhouse, and my brother is a natural marketer. We were enthused with the Mordens when they first came out, of course. My brother heavily marketed them. Despite the fact that much of Canada is in a warmer zone than us, people would demand those Canadian roses. They still do. We developed a reputation for selling hardy Canadian roses, and sold Morden Blush and Morden Centennial by the metric ton (slight exaggeration). Gosh, I remember how lovely Morden Sunrise was growing in a pot.

Then the blackspot moved in. My Blush and Centennial in the gardens basically died out. Morden Sunrise revealed it’s true colors as a disease-ridden dog. My brother started recommending Ortho rose spray.

I found myself in the awkward sales position of having people come to me for these hardy Canadian roses when I knew that they were basically unacceptable for the average gardener. I really didn’t have anywhere to turn to sell them a rose that was acceptable. At that time, Ping Lim was releasing roses for Bailey Nurseries, and I started trying out some of them. Super Hero made it through one winter, and I had a lovely blossom picture, so I went heavy on that variety. The next winter it died.

Around that time I started dabbling with hybridizing. It became apparent that there was a real need for a hardy, disease resistant rose with good double flower form. The demand had already been created.

It was a stroke of good fortune to discover this forum and the wonderful people that populate it. I have the deepest gratitude to my friends here for helping me find some varieties that I could turn to. I’m especially grateful to Julie Overom, who has a true zone 3 trial garden and seems to have grown every possible rose that might have a chance up here. Thanks to her (and David Z) I found out that most of Bill Radler’s roses are hardier than the original Knock Out.

I unfortunately haven’t found a bare root wholesaler that carries Prairie Joy. Right now my go-to rose is Easy Elegance Sunrise Sunset. What a flower bomb. While it might have less core hardiness than the Mordens, it’s disease resistance allows it to store energy and I have a row in the field that have done great with no protection for several years.

I wonder if I have Prairie Dawn…sounds like another potential breeder. Much rebloom? Prairie Joy seems to pass on reblooming poorly.

Joe

Oh, that’s lovely, Paul! PJ x CS would be a nice cross.

I have a whole row of OP Prairie Joy seedlings in the field, and I have to say most did not bloom last year. It will be interesting to see how many survive.

‘Prairie Dawn’ is said to have very good repeat bloom, at least as a mature plant. Based on the parentage it’s very difficult to say if it would give rise to seedlings that bloom in their first season, though.

On a ‘Prairie Dawn’-related note, I have some ongoing questions about the plants used in breeding labeled “Rosa spinosissima altaica”. Based on physical characteristics and fragrance in some of their better-known offspring, I am tempted to believe that the actual source of these genes is not so closely related to Rosa spinosissima L., but rather something in Cinnamomeae approaching Rosa laxa (maybe even Rosa laxa itself) and possessing a strong linseed oil fragrance that is uncharacteristic of true Rosa spinosissima. I perceive this in such roses as ‘Isabella Skinner’ and ‘Fruehlingsduft’ where the only explanation is the contribution from “Rosa spinosissima altaica”. The only plant I’ve obtained under the name “Rosa spinosissima altaica” appears to be ordinary Rosa spinosissima mislabeled, which is slightly frustrating. I’d be very interested to see photos and descriptions of what others are growing under this name, especially from Canadian or European sources.

Stefan

Stefan, the altaica that we have here in the Canadian north is very different than the normal Scot. it has larger leaves and pale yellow flowers and grows to a height of 2m. I grow a few forms of Rosa laxa and they are different especially the positioning of the stamens.

I Know that people will disagree with me but I find that the European form is not all that hardy up here.

Thanks Joe,

I’m excited about it also. If it is a PJ x CS cross, I hope it combines the best qualities of both plants.

I double checked my PJ Op seedlings and 4 out of the 7 seedlings have flower buds on them. So based on that very small sample, about 50% of PJs seedlings will have juvenile repeat bloom.

I’ve had the same experience with the Parkland roses as you have. I had Morden Blush for two seasons and I culled it last year because of its susceptibility to BS. I’ve also had Morden Centennial for a number of years and it’s never had good disease resistance but last year it totally broke down for leaf spot, so I’ll be culling it this spring. I have used MC numerous times as the seed parent and to date I haven’t kept any of the seedlings from it. I also have a MC OP plant that I’ve done a lot crosses with and none of those seedlings have made the cut either. While most of the seedlings have had decent hardiness all of them have been culled because of a lack of disease resistance.

Of the Baileys roses, Snowdrift has been the hardiest and one of the better ones for disease resistance up until this year when it succumb to leaf spot pretty bad. I have tried it both as the seed parent and as the pollen parent with little luck. The best for disease resistance has been My Hero. It’s also very female fertile and sets lots of seed. Its hardiness is about the same as Carefree Beauty.

I’ve had Carefree Sunshine for 8 or 9 years now and while it dies back almost to the ground most years it bounces back well. I can’t say that for Double knockout which struggles every year. Home Run was the same way.

The notes after the first page, says the David Z counted Alexander Mckenzie a triploid. I don’t know why the front page has not been changed. johannes p

Apparently the Laxa species varies depending on origin:

That was a good thought, Johannes.

With regard to Prairie Dawn, all I can contribute is that I grew it many years ago and it never did very well for me (Z3B), although some of the fault may have been due to the fact that the plant was budded and few of the root stocks used at the time were reliably hardy here. The plant struggled for several years–threw a tall cane or two that died back pretty far each year, and the plant ultimately failed–probably overgrown by more vigorous plants around it. I actually never saw more than a few blooms on the plant and any repeat was negligible, although that may have improved if the plant had done better. I kept one OP seedling from it–the poor thing had been placed in a sand pit for the winter and was somehow missed the following spring when I dug things up. I found it two years later–still in a 1-gallon pot–growing under a white pine. I felt it deserved royal treatment after several years of neglect. I moved it to a larger pot, gave it some fertilizer, and pampered it for a year before planting. The plant did not repeat, had a more Spinosissima or wild appearance than Prairie Dawn (but my Prairie Dawn was next to a double white Spin), and had OK but not great DR. On the other hand, it was completely hardy and very vigorous. I watched it for a few years but had other Spin crosses I liked better and I finally removed it. I suspect that any repeat on PD was of the type sometimes seen with the Explorers and many times that does not translate into a true repeat in the next generation.

What I feel to be the true Altaica stands out in several ways, although I have no doubt that there are probably several different varieties out there being sold as Altaica. The plant is definitely taller (~6 feet/2m) and more upright than many Spins and the blooms are noticeably larger. While not a true repeater, I had one early summer where it had the usual spectacular first flush–then about two dozen blooms later in the summer–and about half a dozen that bloomed in September–it only happened once and I have never had any seedlings from it repeat in a first generation even though it was my go-to spin for hybridizing. It is certainly possible that Altaica could be some sort of hybrid but there was never any doubt that all the seedlings I ever grew looked like Spin hybrids. The hips on Altaica are the classic Spin dark purple/black.

Prairie Joy will always be one of my favorite Canadian roses–yes, I have said this once or twice (or ten times) before. It is definitely not one of the hardiest and I lost two during a very harsh winter in 2002. Most winters result in 4-8 inches of live wood in the spring. Never-the-less, it regrows well to three feet (and throws the occasional longer cane) and I find the dense canopy of foliage a very attractive setting for the lovely blooms. It is not immune to blackspot but it tolerates the disease and due to the thick foliage it maintains an attractive appearance during the most severe infestations–while not common I have seen 50% loss of foliage but even under those circumstances the plant still looked decent. It seems to have better leaf-spot resistance than most roses I grow–some can be present but it is fairly minimal compared to what I am seeing all around it. While people argue about the level of repeat (or lack of repeat) I have grown it at two different locations over a period of 17 years and it always has a very good second bloom and definitely not the typical Explorer smattering of repeat blossoms. My experience echoes Paul’s with respect to juvenile bloom on seedlings. Interestingly, OP Prairie Joy seeds were some of my first experience with juvenile bloom from a hardy plant. I can still see those trays of seedlings in my mind so many years ago–especially since few of the Canadian hybrids I produced at that time had juvenile bloom. While I can’t say the exact percentages, I’d probably echo Paul’s statement of about 50% juvenile bloom for PJ seedlings. I have two seedlings with excellent repeat that are Prairie Joy F1’s, although I honestly can’t recall if these particular plants had juvenile bloom–they were produced 10 years ago.



While I agree with Joe that most of the Morden roses have not done well in my area due to blackspot issues, in addition to Prairie Joy I find that Morden Belle has proven to be one of my most reliable performers. It has shown excellent hardiness here with about 10-12 inches of live wood in the spring. It is a vigorous grower with a beautiful arching form, very attractive and abundant bloom, and a reliable second bloom. Yes, it gets blackspot and it can defoliate badly some years in later summer, but the canes are rarely affected by the disease and I have noticed that when blackspot seems limited to the foliage and does not seem to affect the canes that the plants can survive very well, year after year, even with the stresses of winter to deal with. I have only recently come to the conclusion that it is a plant that I would like to at least try and incorporate into my breeding efforts as it has so many positive attributes and the BS is something that it may be possible to breed out. In my experience it is not female fertile but the pollen is good. Cuthbert Grant is also a decent Morden rose with respect to health. The hardiness is a bit marginal in this area and it dies back to the crown but it always came back at my old location. The repeat was not heavy but was there. I just never got much from it–but then I didn’t use it heavily in hybridizing. Winnipeg Parks was a nice rose for years but in recent years the disease resistance to blackspot has broken down and it was never hardy here.

Paul, I’d recommend hanging in there with DKO or trying another plant. Mine took several years to establish well (perhaps a sandier soil makes a difference) but it is a standout performer now that the root ball has achieved some size. While only crown hardy, it is still one of the best plants I have and in my leaf-spot plagued site it is a stand-out performer with 5 years of testing. I do keep a couple inches of mulch on my beds and I was recently told that there is a huge difference in winter survival of plants in beds with mulch compared to those without. Perhaps my mulch has made a difference when conditions are so marginal and snow cover has been so erratic. I think that your (possible) Prairie Joy x Carefree Sunshine has excellent potential–what a great cross that could be. Both parents have so much to offer!

Joe, I am finding that a number of Ping Lim’s more recent introductions are surviving here and doing well in testing here–at least early on. The biggest problem seems to be that many are breaking down with leaf spot during the final year of testing. If LS is not an issue in your area then they are lovely roses, have lots of promise, and are definitely worth trying.

Kim,

Maybe we should adopt a motto that’s easier to pronounce, I couldn’t even mimic the recording of how to say it. A rethink may be needed. Still, nihil Ausus et nihil permanere.

Paul, Joe, Stefan, and Julie

Thanks for the feedback on juvenile flowering, etc. of these two. If I can get a diploid self of P.J. (or a diploid seedling from P.D. pollen if that’s a triploid ) with juvenile flowering it would give me something else that could potentially be crown hardy in zone 3, that I can use to cross into woodsii and rugosa. Judging by what you’ve all said it should be worth having (incidentally, I have a plan for filtering pollen through a 30 micron mesh to remove the x2 pollen, and increase the frequency of diploid offspring from triploid parents. I’ve no idea if it’ll work but I figure it’s worth a shot.).

Johannes,

I somehow managed to miss that comment, and it would appear I wasn’t the only one. But the info had been updated now. Could I ask why you would favour ‘Alexander MacKenzie’ over P.J.? You have me itching to buy A.M. from Beales now and I’m thinking I should be a little less impulsive about it this time so your thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

With all this talk about plants being misidentified and my recent experience with ‘the dog rose called blanda’ I’m just hoping that what we have as P.D., P.J. and A.M. are the real thing . I guess al I can do is hope for the best in that respect.

My growers comment wrt AM is its flowers burn easily in the sun so suggest you may want to be aware of that factor in your search for the right genes. I hear from my Cornish mother-in-law this morning’s Daily Mail is forecasting UK going down to MINUS 7 C. Good thing your looking at hardy genes for Swansea and area, as for me I will enjoy my last day in Hawaii before I return tomorrow to the land of really hardy roses

Riku,

I’m glad to say I’ve not been in the Swansea area for some years now, I’m in South East Wales these days. With regard to my need for hardiness, please refer to my last post in this thread. It’ll save me lot of typing.

Read it and good luck, on “breeding for zone 2 and 3” if i read and understand your notes right - we need truly hardy roses with garden value that take the genes of the woolly and combine them with grace - like Lillian Gibson - not totally hardy but real close- hope-7c does not become reality.

Well, I know what I think would be useful, but I’ll leave it to people living in those zones to decide what is needed.

In the long run I’d like to incorporate a wider range of colours and fragrances into rugosa hybrids. I’m about 10 years in at this point and about 2 generations along on that road, mainly because you wait 3-4 years for the seedlings to flower just to discover they are all pink and smell like any other rugosa. So my priority is to develop some rugosa hybrids with juvenile flowering to speed things up later on. It’ll likely take another 10 years to get there, but if I can achieve that, I hope to accomplish my main goals more rapidly.

If in the end, if I produce something people in your climate think is worth having, all the better for it. But I’m just looking to challenge myself a little, and breed the type of roses like.

Besides, sooner or later we’ll have another ice age, and then people in the UK will need the sort of roses I’m planing to breed. So as you can see, I’m planing for the long term.

Jinksy, I love your breeding ideas. Your idea about the mesh and PJ pollen actually ran through my mind last summer, too! I don’t think I’ll ever do it, so good luck!

My experience with PJ seedlings last summer sure does not mirror those of Paul and Julie. I’d guess less than 10% rebloomers. Many of the rebloomers did not build a large plant in one year. I’d guess I had about 140+ seedlings and maybe three combined good vigor and rebloom. I think that when crossed with modern reblooming roses the percentage of juvenile rebloom is higher, maybe 50%.

I do love the character of Prairie Joy. It’s not a prolific pollen producer nor seed-setter, unfortunately, making it a little more work to hybridize with. But the seedlings have a tendency towards charming blossom form and attractive blue-green foliage.

Julie, I’ve gotten quite a few OP hips off of Morden Belle, and have grown some OP seedlings. Come to think of it, I haven’t gotten many intentional crosses to set hips on it though. Mine was indeed beautiful and I think spotless last year. Maybe I should reconsider using it.

I have some Cuthbert Grant cross seeds in the cooler. I think I tried it with Winner’s Circle.

Prairie Joy x fedtschenkoana?? Just a thought.

Joe, or Prairie Joy X (Cal Poly X Fed.) or, if you’d like, I have suckers of DLFED 3 available… if they prove sufficiently hardy.

Joe,

I’ve had the idea about using a mesh with triploid pollen for a few years, but hadn’t been able to source an affordable mesh for the job. But this year steel mesh in 25, 30 ,34 ,42 ,50 and 62 microns have shown up. I haven’t measured pollen in water yet but figured the 30 or 34 micron mesh should be OK. I’ll be checking some diploid pollen in water when the roses start to bloom to make sure the size is right. The mesh pretty cheep so I’m not to worried if it’s to small.

My plan is to flush the pollen through the mesh with water and catch is in a 1 micron fabric filter before drying it back down and applying it to the roses. If that wont work I’m thinking I’ll measure the pollen dry and go with a mesh that will allow diploid pollen through length ways and use some kind of vacuum system to suck the dry pollen through the bottom of the mesh while I move it around with a paintbrush from the top.

To be honest I was thinking of P.D. and P.J. as a vehicle to get juvenile flowering into the hardy Cinnamomae species more than an end in its self, so one half decent diploid seedling with juvenile flowering is all I really need from it. However the prospect of glaucous foliage is another attraction, and if it arises I can see me working with that trait.

From what you say Prairie Joy x fedtschenkoana could be well worth trying, it has the potential to produce something really interesting. It’s not something I have space to explore myself right now but who I’ll be interested to see your results if you give it a shot. I’ve actually grown R. fedtschenkoana and R glauca for years, but haven’t done much with them in hybridising. To be honest I love both roses as they are and would change little about them. I’d like them both to repeat, and maybe put a white flower on glauca, but I don’t see much to improve for my taste. I’m actually pretty fond of species roses. Their single flowers of many of them have a simple beauty, elegance, and charm that I much prefer to the blousy double blooms of most hybrids.

Having said that Kim, I’ve been impressed with the work you’ve done with fedtschenkoana for some time. I was interested to observe that some of your seedlings from fedtsch have had foliage closer to the colour of R, glauca. I think you are headed for something special with this breeding line, and I continue to watching with interest.

Joe,

The BS-resistance on Morden Belle is definitely variable year-to-year and some years it has been very good. Certainly it is possible that a particular BS race may be absent from my garden some years but I have to speculate about the possibility that MB may have at least some vertical resistance. When it defoliates, it is one of those roses with such a nice, vase-like and gently arching growth form that even when there is significant defoliation it manages to retain a decent appearance. I like this rose more and more as time passes. It presents a very good case for plant satisfaction even when the DR is far from perfect. Sometimes I think we set our expectations too high. I have a couple of MB seedlings that survived the culling from the first season here. I’m looking forward to seeing what they do this year.

Prairie Joy definitely presents hybridizing challenges. The very double blooms make it a bit difficult to get the timing right for pollination and seed production is usually limited to 2-4 seeds–but it is still worth pursuing. I think that growing it in a pot and keeping it in a poly-house during the active part of the hybridizing season (I know you have this capability) ups the chances that you’ll have some take as a seed parent as the increased heat tends to make the blooms open better. By the same token, the double blooms mean that the pollen production is a bit limited–but the pollen is definitely viable. Even if I didn’t know that PJ is triploid, the way it performs in crosses would be a good indication of ploidy. Still, it is much better than many triploids I have worked with. The seedlings are a mixed bag but with enough positive results to make its use worthwhile. A good example is your PJ x Morden Sunrise. While it did have a problem with BS last season, it is truly a lovely plant with good repeat and a good example of what PJ is capable of. More work could improve the BS resistance.

I like your idea of a (PJ x R. fed) cross and I know that there are many fans of R. fedtschenkoana on this forum. I definitely think it is a species worth pursuing–but I have another possibility I like better. I think I’ve mentioned my fondness for R. virginiana in other posts. With the exception of its horrible ability to move to wherever it wants (like a mile away) by way of suckers, it is in all ways one of the most lovely species roses out there. R. fedtschenkoana is also is a prolific sucker producer (this suckering capability may be enhanced in my sandier soil). While it is absolutely and totally hardy here, it does defoliate to a noticeable degree from leaf-spot and there is corresponding cane damage. Again, it took several years for this tendency to become noticeable and for the first three years it was a standout rose from a health perspective. While it does throw a few blooms pretty much constantly over the course of the summer, it never has the big flush of first bloom that most species have. In 2009, I had good success with crosses between R.v and R. f. I have kept three seedlings looking more like R. fed because I know they are true hybrids–they were also the healthiest of this group. One of the seedlings demonstrates the ability to throw later blooms. All three were finally planted in the ground last fall and I’m looking forward to seeing how they perform and what they can contribute to crosses. I hope to see the best of both species. My main concern will be the possibility of leaf-spot tendencies showing up in the next year or two. I also have a seedling that is a cross between [(Carefree Beauty x John Davis) x R. fedtschenkoana] that turned out to be a blooming machine last year–whether it is a true hybrid and not a self is definitely a question but it is far healthier than the mother and much more compact. While the leaf-spot tendencies of all components of the cross disturb me, the plant was very interesting and did have a bit of a “wild” look to it. I’m perfectly happy to collect pollen from any of these and share it with you if you are interested. I’ll be trialing them myself this year and you could still do a pure R. fed cross with PJ. Also, Kim’s hybrid might bring you to repeat bloom more quickly. I just know that the seedlings I mentioned are all completely hardy here.

Really don not know why I like this plant other than the fact that it the only explorer with a Tea scent. the flowers are OK get a little bit bleach and ball in wet weather. It’s also leggy like a HT climber. I see it as a stepping stone. It is at its best when the fall where it produses huger clusters that can be taken in at frost. It is one of those plants were all the stats are satisfied but somehow they just don’t work together. I still love it even if it is only for the smell. Johannes