Hi Timo!
No, because I didn’t know for sure that it really shuld be possible, even for several months.
But its no problem, something will flower.
I took some for me important pots inside every cold night and now they are atleast 4 weeks ahead that ones outside.
Today I checked again the persica plants, but there was no further bud so far.
But what a good beginning, this season!
Greetings,
Arno
Hope the timing is right at your place!
Hope to get my Tigris real quickly. I’m sleeping in front of the door. 
R. Xanthina has a lot of buds. Let the season begin! lol.
My ‘Tigris’ is almost completely “bloomed out”. ‘Tigris’ and most of its descendents bloom somewhat earlier than regular roses. I snapped off the last bud of the yellow seedling above, H65-2 (a once bloomer), last night. To try to prolong the pollination period, I will put it in the refrigerator for a couple of days. I made 51 pollinations with it today.
I used it some last year and finally got a repeat bloomer from it that I found this morning among the brand new seedlings (will try to get a photo). This was fun for me because all of my other repeat bloomers have come from derivatives of ‘Tiggle’ and ‘Persian Sunset’. It also represents another group of genes coming from ‘Tigris’ that might be different than ‘Tiggle’ and ‘Persian Sunset’ offspring.
Jim Sproul
Well, here is a photo of the best so far, of the 2008 hulthemia seedlings:
The seedling is quite small and the bloom rather dominates the plant. When I removed the flower, I noticed another flower bud forming, so hopefully, this one will be floriferous. So far it appears clean. As with other repeat blooming hulthemias, the blotch size and intensity should increase substantially as it matures.
Jim Sproul
Nice Jim!
I did some research on the hulthemia hybrids. Almost every hybrid has a lot of multiflora genes. Is this the direction with the most potential?
Hi Jim,
this one has very good potential, if the stamina remain fresh (and won’t crumble) at least for a while.
Because the contrast of the yellow stamina with the dark blotch / eye spot is quite good.
(By the way, why shouldn’t we call it simply stigma instead of blotch / eye spot?)
Timo, yes, this is caused by the polyantha influence on the minis that are often used in these breeding lines, - and also already because of the pollen partner “Trier” in the only so far used Rosa persica F2 Hybrid “Tigris”?
The only problem I see is the fading colouring, which perhaps could be left besides if one takes other material.
I wouldn’t say that the most potential should be in breeding in more Polyantha genes in persica, as they really don’t fit very good to the rests of persica genome in the hybrids and as there are already enough hybrids with that mixture around … .
Yes: I will do some polyantha (better: synstylae) crossings with later Hybrids like CHEWtingle, but thats not my main aim.
For persica I will mainly try pure species crossings this year.
Greetings from Germany,
Arno
Same direction here.
Tigris shows a little green when I got it. It’s in a huge container.
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I have these species which hopefully will be used:
R. ecae
R. foliolosa
R. glauca
R. minutifolia f. albiflora W.H. Lewis
R. moyesii
R. multiflora
R. nitida ‘Kebu’
R. pseudoscabriuscula
R. ultramontana
R. xanthina
Hi Timo,
I would like to see a close up of the thorns if it’s not too much trouble.
Don
Here you are,
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Great photo, thanks.
These look to be inherited from Trier as R. persica has hypodermic prickles. The form here is the same back through Aglaia to R. multiflora.
Maybe if Arno is following this thread he could answer another question about morphology, in persica.
In this article on Paul’s site Mr. Moore comments on how the sepals in all roses follows a particular pattern.
http://www.rdrop.com/~paul/moore_moss1967.html
The pattern is one with foliaceous fringes, one plain, one foliaceous, one plain, one half-and-half.
Arno has posted some very good photos of R. perisca on HelpMeFind but I cannot quite tell if this pattern is present on the sepals. In as much as R. persica is the most primitive form of Rosa it would be interesting to know whether it has this pattern.
Could Moore’s Irene Marie be part of a Hulthemia program? The contrast between the orange border and the yellow center is so well defined and dramatic and it is so healthy and vigorous and eager to bloom – however, mine are new so I don’t know how fertile they in either direction.
Robert W, HelpMeFind list the following parentage
Seed: Little Darling
Damn, I think my Tigris is dried out. It’s looking very greyish/dry. 
Timo, if you are sure, I think I would cut it back to just a few eyes and see if it will push.
You might ask the supplier for advice and let them know there is a problem.
This a problem for late delivered not growing roses.
To minimize evaporation you can put a mid cut clear plastic bottle over the plant. Top half is better as cap removed there is not too much temperature rising in sun.
When it was just in a pot, it was in full sun. I added 3 liter of water. As you can see above it a very tiny plant. It had some green but thats gone. It’s in a pot for 1,5 weeks. I hope it still works, but if not next year I’ll buy it again.
Made some pictures.
It’s from the new growth but they cut it back.
These parts are still flexible. The old growth is easely to brake. The fresh leaves are dried out.
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It looks like it will be fine to me.
Hi you!
Yes, this one will be fine, if the roots come out soon and if its not exposed to the full sun in the beginning.
Great list, Timo, ecae will be also one possible pollen partners for me to put on persica. But it depends on a few factors, because I also want to breed for resistance against funghi right from the beginning - in F1.
Here ecae seems at least to be resistant against powdery mildew, but its only my little view on this species, not due to any publications or discussions with specialists.
Perhaps I will try out Hidcote Gold s it is a great plant, perhaps even better than ecae as a partner.
Greetings & good luck!
Arno