Hello, thought it could be helpful to tell each other what does best in our gardens so that we can make better decisions when purchasing new roses!
Now for me Ipsilante, Ispahan, Jacques Cartier, indigo, Mon amie Claire and Paula Vapelle are all very healthy.
I am in zone 8 in a temperate climate
Interesting idea. I canât narrow my response as I have deliberately culled every rose with any fungal issues in my garden. So, everything on my HMF garden list is without fungal issues in my Central California Coastal Zone 9b, nine miles from the Pacific Ocean. Itâs chilly to cold and usually wet at night with a fairly consistent daily ocean breeze which varies from rather warm and arid to ârefrigeratedâ. If the rose canât remain clean, it does away. Period. 'Kim Rupert' plant lists
Thatâs a good long list for no disease! Woweee
âNo diseaseâ right here, in my yard. Elsewhere? Who knows? I selected the varieties based upon their proclaimed resistances and observed health in similar situations. There have been misses and if they werenât easily reversed, they went away. A shovel is the most effective cure for disease.
south korea, z8a
roses with no BS or PM in no spray garden
Chateau de Cheverny/ delbard
Anastasia/ nirp
Julie Andrieu/ delbard
Florentina/ kordes
Fresh Snow/ japanese LCL
Gartenprinzessin Marie-José/ kordes
Abracadabra/ kordes 2004
Jardin des Tuileries/ delbard
Beatrice/ Austin floristâs rose
Thierry Marx/ delbard
Looking for Love/ David Kenny
Vancouver Island, BC, Canada. Z7b?
Some of my healthiest roses are;
Rugelda, what I believe to be Moonstone (bought labeled Blossomtime), Trier, Alberic Barbier, Quadra, DAâs Crocus Rose, Mutabilis, Mrs Oakley Fisher, Bullâs Eye (PEJamore), Benjamin Britten, Antike â89, Topaz Jewel, Outta the Blue, Love & Peace, Charles de Mills, Jenny Duvall, and Violacea.
Edited to add: Above and Beyond, which gave two very showy flushes under rather stressful conditions. Rooted itself to the ground through the bottom of the pot. Itâs grown on its own roots. Excellent vigour. Very little spotting throughout the season and almost none on the last few yellow/orange leaves remaining.
This is a really difficult question for me because so few roses in my garden are truly healthy (i.e. essentially free of significant disease), other than some species and a very short list of hybrids. Between that and the fact that most of the healthiest types donât pass down especially durable (horizontal) disease resistance to our primary scourge, blackspot, the list below does not actually contain many roses that have factored heavily into my breeding activities. These healthiest roses also tend to be among the most highly vigorous, large-growing plantsâand high vigor is one of the ways by which otherwise disease-prone roses can maintain the appearance of overall health here, by essentially outgrowing the disease.
I live in USDA hardiness zone 7/8, Mid-Atlantic U.S., which experiences fairly long, hot, humid summers that are optimal for blackspot development. Additional major challenges here include poor, acidic soil, cane girdlers, rose midge, and Rose Rosette Disease (not to mention deer, which are more frequent visitors than I would like even in my nearly urban garden). After these, a list of next-most-noteworthy roses in terms of survival and breeding utility would likely consist of those varieties that are tough enough to survive despite mostly defoliating after the first flush but never really looking particularly healthy for the rest of the growing season, yet somehow managing to photosynthesize with green stems and a sparse cover of raggedy leaves, at least well enough to carry on the display year after year. In my experience, those somewhat sorry-looking varieties can still be productive in a breeding program with the right pairing. Roses with serious cane health issues are far more likely to be ephemeral here, while those with very good canes can succeed even if their leaves come and go.
Rosa adenochaeta
Rosa banksiae
Rosa bracteata
Rosa brunonii âLa Mortolaâ (hit hard by cane borers here)
Rosa lucieae (better known to many by one of its synonyms, Rosa wichurana)
Rosa multiflora
Rosa roxburghii (minor mildew can occur at times)
Rosa rugosa (it has some other issues here, though)
Rosa virginiana [not currently in my garden]
âFortuneâs Five-coloredâ/âSmithâs Parishâ
âLe Vesuveâ
âMermaidâ
âMaria Leonidaâ
âSanderâs Whiteâ
âGlenn Daleâ [not currently in my garden]
âAmerican Pillarâ
âHumeâs Blush Tea-scented Chinaâ
âGeneral Gallieniâ [not currently in my garden]
âSafranoâ
âMarechal Nielâ [not currently in my garden]
âMme E. Souffrainâ [contracts blackspot for a little bit, then is mostly healthy for remainder of season; I have very mixed feelings about its flowers]
âMoser House Shed Roseâ
âHenri Martinâ
âRussellianaâ
âBansheeâ
âWhite Capâ
Yellow Submarine
âClimbing Mrs Herbert Stevensâ
âSenegalâ [surprisingly healthy after spring, but has been very, very reluctant to bloom at all]
âPerle dâOrâ
âRitausmaâ
âHenry Hudsonâ
The Generous Gardener [healthier than most other David Austin roses for me]
Ramblinâ Red
Barock [midsummer defoliation, then healthy again]
Quadra [seemed bulletproof, but I didnât have it for very longâit made a large shrub quickly and was glorious, then died suddenly, possibly due to voles.]
Of course, roses like Knockout and Home Run seem healthy in other gardens (aside from Rose Rosette Disease), but I donât have any in my garden. There are various others that are too new to my garden to be sure about, but seem promising so far.
Stefan
Iâm in USDA hardiness zone 9a, with typical monsoon climate. Very humid weather in early summer and autumn caused extremely high blackspot pressure, and relatively cool, dry spring tend to stimulate powdery mildew. In addition, very hot (usually more than 35â), dry summer also might be a challenge to many plants.
These are very healthy plants with almost no blackspot (at least no evident defoliation caused by BS) according to my observation (June to October) in Shanghai Botanical Garden, Shanghai, China.
Rosa banksiae
R. blanda
R. bracteata
R. gigantea (no blackspot but quite severe mildew in spring)
R. lucieae syn. R. wichurana (sometimes with slightly mildew)
R. multiflora and most (but not all) of its varieties
R. rugosa and its varieties (not hybrids)
âKnock Outâ [RADrazz], âDouble Knock Outâ [RADtko] and their sports [absolutely no blackspot even under the shadow of a heavily diseased one, could mildew heavily in particular landscape situation (heavily shaded, low air flow in cool, dry spring), but no such problem in the botanical garden.)
âWhite Knock Outâ [RADwhite] (quite attractive compact habit compared with KO and DKO)
âIcecapâ [MEIradena]
âRayon de Soleilâ [MEIanycid] (perhaps the healthiest yellow)
âCandia Meidilandâ (very mild BS, heavy hip set)
âCherry Bonicaâ (no BS but very mild mildew in spring)
âScarlet Bonicaâ (no BS but might mildew in spring)
âPeach Driftâ (I heard that it would get some mildew in spring but I didnât found)
âCoral Driftâ (according to HMF it might susceptible to mildew, but I havenât found that, at least not âsusceptibleâ)
âSweet Driftâ
âFlower Carpet Red Velvetâ [NOAre]
âIvorâs Roseâ
âAlexandre Giraultâ (disease free and very attractive shiny, small leaves)
âThe Fairyâ (not totally immune to BS, but almost. might suffer to other leaf spot problem but evidently not BS)
âNew Dawnâ
âRobin Hoodâ (can get BS but at less defoliate)
âCrĂ©pusculeâ (can get some degree of BS but at least looks healthy)
âDuchesse De Montebello (hybrid China, Laffay, 1824)â (The healthiest European OGR here)
âLijiang Roseâ / Rosa odorata var. erubescens (Totally disease free, extremely giant and vigorous, like a monster)
Koster roses (no BS in early summer, but medium degree of that in autumn. very susceptible to mildew)
Duchess De Montebello is one of the most healthy roses I have seen in old rose national collection at mottisfont UK. (They donât spray) Itâs very healthy. I have heard many good things about it on this forum
âDuchesse de Montebelloâ isnât terrible here, either, but it isnât as healthy as âHenri Martinâ or âRussellianaâ.
Stefan
Blue for You (Peter James) and Starlight Symphony (Harkness, climber) are the healthiest roses in my garden. No blackspot, mildew or rust. Starlight Symphony has lush dark green foliage that is spotless even now in late October it doesnât look weather-battered, it has been fed with fish, blood and bone last spring. My garden is on the south coast of England, maritime climate, classified as zone 9 but summers not that hot, winters barely touching freezing, high latitude so no UVB in winter sun, rains a lot between about September to May, summers fairly dry.
Both produce lots of hips whose seeds germinate easily.
would love to hear from some cold zoners.
in my garden in minneapolis, zone 4 or 5, umbra is by far the tallest and healthy rose. above and beyond is very good and my neighborâs is even better. marianne is doing very well in its second year after a tough, hot, dry first summer as a band. st swithun is vigorous, hardy and clean. high country banshee is in a tough place and has done very well. i put in a lot of old garden roses this year so i will be very interested to see how they perform. music box is probably the cleanest overall rose with beautiful foilage. i donât much care for the blooms so i donât water it or really do anything with it, but it is the very picture of health. iâm going to use it more for hybridizing next year because it sets hips readily.
Starlight symphony is now on my list! I like the look of it and it is wildly reported as being very very healthy. I have been looking for just the climber for far too long!
Here (cfa according to the Köppen climate classification. Humid temperate climate with 4 seasons and no dry season) the biggest problem is blackspot. Few varieties are completely healthy, but quite a few perform well.
No blackspot on:
Limited damage on:
Noticeable damage with no effect on performance:
About Coral Drift, it got heavy mildew here for the first three years I grew it, but it seems to have outgrown its susceptibility. Now it gets some blackspot, not too heavily though. I grow it in a pot, it may be better in the ground.
The Dahlia rose is stunning! Does it set hip?!
Iâve never observed one, nor have I tried to use it. It requires budding as itâs not very vigorous.
Also does for your eyes only set hip that you know off, as I have considered getting that rose for a long time. Itâs meant to be very healthy in the UK also
In my wet 9a region, âOlivia Rose Austinâ can get severe blackspot in early summer. Perhaps not as terrible as something like âPeaceâ but at least not âlimitedâ damage.
I am living in Germany in zone 6b to 7a. Germanyâs climate is assigned to the temperate geographical latitudes - although certain changes are meanwhile noticable.
The numerous references kindly provided can surely serve as a rough guide. However, I fear that they can only be used as a recommendation to a limited extent.
It has been my personal experience since long ago that the health status of one rose variety can diversify greatly, even on a small spatial scale (~ 5 â 20 km). Microclimate affected by the landscape structure in the immediate vicinity (e.g. vegetation and buildings) as well as the local surface and soil properties are certainly decisive influencing parameters.
I would like to illustrate my observations with an interesting example of âRose de Reschtâ during summer and autumn season:
In a public rose garden, located about 4 km far from my residence at 517 m altitude which is home to different types of roses and can be assigned to an urban climate as a first approximation, âRose de Reschtâ grows each year very poorly, has only very few flowers and is attacked at an early stage by heavy black spot. There are hardly any leaves left and no rose hips have formed. In contrast, R. gallica âOfficinalisâ is very healthy there, as are most of the Old Garden Roses, rugosas and species roses.
In my garden and balcony terrace (altitude 548 m), located in proximity to an extended forest but also surrounded by houses and gardens on three sides, âRose de Reschtâ had never black spot so far, although little mildew can form for a short time if the weather conditiones are fitting but it quickly disappears again. The main bloom is profuse with a weaker re-flowering that does last to the end of September. Rose hips develop and are sometimes empty or filled with more or less achenes, depending on the pollen donor.
In another area, also open to the public, rural in character and about 17 km away from my home at an altitude of 635 m, âRose de Reschtâ is flowering magnificently until recently and is still very leafy. The foliage shows some black spots, but that doesnât seem to bother it much in this location. Powdery mildew is not an issue at all.
Compared to the other two clones, this shrub flowers the longest, most profusely and produces many rose hips.
Of course, for a more accurate evaluation and analysis, soil conditions and care would also have to be taken into account in all three locations.
However, and without going into further detail, perhaps my observations could indicate that several factors other than climatic zones, which are based on spatial and temporal averages, can have a decisive influence on the development and health of a rose.
Itâs (for your eyes only) fertile both waysâŠeasier as pollen, same issue as Bright as a Button/Raspberry Kiss (and a number of Warners other hulthemia), thick seed that can inhibit germination.