Looking for the following roses.

I’ve been looking for Yellow Altai, Ross Rambler, R15, Beauty of Leafland to use in my hardy yellow climber breeding program. So far I’m unable to locate these.

I do have Polstjaren (sp), although from what I’ve read it’s not very fertile.

Hi Ross. Where are you located?

Hi Ross.

If you are in the United States, I might be able to help out on some of these but not right away. None of these can be bought in the US as far as I can tell. Ashdown used to sell Beauty of Leafland but its hard to propigate so they have not had it of late.

My problem with providing these plants is I have to wait for suckers. I am going to try a couple of different rooting methods this summer and see what happens. As of right now only my Ross Rambler and Beauty of Leafland are of any size. My R15 is new to me and only a couple inches tall right now. I hope to have J5 available as well. It may not be till spring 09 though.


I recently sent David Zlesak several Canadian cold hardy (Zone 2 - 3) cultivars that aren’t available in the States. Included were the Spinosissimas ‘Yellow Altai’ and ‘Prairie Peace’, and the repeat blooming Rosa glauca hybrid I call ‘Skinner’s Perpetual’. Maybe David can give an update on how they are doing.

Hi Paul,

Thanks again for your generosity in getting them to us here in the States. Most are coming along slowly, but surely. They are in the greenhouse. It was unfortunate that the delivery service left them in their warehouse for a couple weeks here in MN before they got them to me. They were stressed, but are recovering. I’ll try to take some cuttings here after they have some more growth on them and try to get more plants to share.

Thanks again Paul,



I live in Minneapolis, Minnesota.

David Zlesak was kind enough to offer me some cuttings this spring. Thank You David.

From the posts I’ve been reading, to create a hardy yellow climber that is disease resistant and reblooms, one must start from scratch. Here are some of my plans, feel free to give your thoughts, opinions, experiences as the hybridizing of roses are new to me, although I’ve had roses growing here for a long time.

I wanted once blooming, hardy yellows to cross with some of the Explorer climbing roses especially John Davis, Quadra , Hope for Humanity and William Baffin.

I wanted to cross Julie Child, Sunsprite and an unnamed Kordes floribunda I got from Home Depot last fall for $3.00 to some of the species roses or some of the hardier pink and white climbers. All three of these roses I grow in large pots and have been disease free, especially from blackspot.

I also have Prairie Princess, Applejack, Viking Queen, Hattie Burton, Long John Silver, Roberta Bondar and Mr. Nash in the rose beds.

I have a few more tender yellows I would like to try are Golden Showers, Yellow Blaze, and Yellow Queen Elizabeth.

I was am also considering crossing some yellow or white minis to some of the hardier climbers.

I already had Lemon Meringue, Sky’s the Limit, Graham Thomas, The Pilgrim in my rose beds. If they survive this winter, I would consider using them. If they don’t, I’ll replace them.

I have put some moderately hardy yellows in my collection. I, like you, have made hardy yellow climbers one of my primary goals in hybridizing. Been ‘planning’ for 4 years because it has been challenging for me to gather roses that I felt were essential to my efforts. Hazeldean and Williams Double Yellow would be on my list of good roses. Williams Double Yellow is available from Vintage Gardens.

For moderately hardy and reasonably helthy yellows, I have been looking at roses related to Clare Grammersdorf. 2 that I think are the very nice are Lichtkonigan Lucia and ChinaTown. Both are good yellows and better than average disease resistance for me. Aurthur Bell isnt bad but it really faded quickly for me so I didnt bring it with me when I moved.

Another rose that I think could be useful is Golden Glow. Its moderately hardy and has good yellow. I feel it has pretty darn good disease resistance when compared to other yellows. Its a in the lineage of Applejack and some other fairly hardy yellows. It is an excellent climber with long pliable canes.

I like Autumn sunset as well (Westerland). Its offspring can take on Westerland type coloration but I think that is actually a good thing when combined with other yellow.

The above are not overly hadry. I suspect they would die to the ground snowline in Zone 4. They did well in zone 5 with moderate to no dieback during a typical winter. I think that they could make a first generation US zone 4 hardy plant when combined with some of the silly hardy roses like Hazeldean, Williams Double Yellow and others.

One rose I wish I could get again is called Irenes Delight. I never got to use it. Its Autumn Sunset x William Baffin and is zone 4 hardy. I had it when I lived in Nebraska and loved it even though it was a once blooming plant. Ashdown roses has it but are not selling it. Its not a true yellow and does fade but is a very nifty rose. I was able to try it 1 time but didnt get much in the way of hip set. It did produce pollen but I didnt get to use it. I plan to keep pestering Ashdowns untill they make some available.

So many ideas have been tossed about in the back of my head. This year will be the first year when I really get to start trying them out.


‘Chinatown’ works for seed and pollen. I have some seedlings using it now from last years pollinations.

Rugelda X R15 is the rose that I have been recommending as a “starting point” rose for hardy yellow breeding programs.


Unfortunately, those who received cuttings were not successful in getting cutting starts. Two people were able to get budding starts. My offer to supply budwood still stands.

If one is interested in what should be a “super hardy yellow” rose, I recommend that you try budding from one of my acicularis X R15 seedlings.





(I still have several plants from this cross that have not yet bloomed.)

The link below gives my summer 2007 hips.


Apparently none of the acicularis X R15 plants (or pollinations) produced hips last spring(at the time of bloom I had a lot of rain).

A note about the name of R15. Peter Harris (the hybridizer of “R15”) uses the name “R15”. I have been sloppy and have used both “R15” and “R-15” interchangeably. I will try to convert all of my "R-15"s to "R15"s.

Link: spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=pxHhTw7ylg782w9GDTC48Sg&hl=en

Acicularis X R15 is a beauty Henry! I hope it proves fertile.

I got hips but no germinations as yet from use of Rugelda x R15 as pollen parent.

I’ll have a lot more pollen to work with this season. My budded plant is about 5’ tall now.

Henry, I wished I could get a start of your Rugelda X R15 but I have never budded and fear that I would fail miserably. Thats why I have never requested bud wood. I will work up the courage one of these days.

Does your Acicularis x R15 plant sucker?

Perhaps I should start budding as most of the roses that I have are hard to propigate. I have been told that spinosissimma hybrids are difficult to root from cuttings. People could plant them deep and hopefully they would become own root eventually. Budding is one of those skills that is important for a hybridizer to have.

If anything is going to hold these hardy rose cultivars back it is difficulty in propagation. Ralph Moore used wichurana in may of his crosses to increase health and ease propagation.

Providing offspring that are easier to propagate could be an additional bonus to using Golden Glow which has very close relation with Rosa wichuraiana from parents on both sides.

SteveJ, I will have to look this spring to see if there are any suckers. Right now everything is covered with snow.

Robert is absolutely right on regarding quoting Ralph Moore about the importance of using Rosa wichurana in a breeding program to improve disease resistance and propagation. It’s good to remind breeders of this fact. There is nothing more spectacular than a tall Spinosissima cultivar in full bloom, but it will never sell to most homeowners. Also, roses of the future will be small or relatively small plants and often grown as annuals in cold (Zone 2 - 4) climates. There- fore, they have to be easily propagated from cuttings. Rosa wichurana, of course, in the paren- tage or pedigree of cultivars, makes it possible to easily propagate them this way.

I would also imagine that the better part of the rootability of the Explorer series that combined the genes of Rosa luciae (wichurana), R. rugosa, R. spinosissima, and R. laxa probably is courtesy of the R. luciae parent. I wonder, have any researchers investigated the heritability of that trait? I’m thinking that it might even be simply dominant. (Sorry, I know I’m getting a little off the track of this thread.)

Im sure it is a common trait stemming from the majority of the synstylae section. But I also note that it is common in Rosa californica. And I have difficulty with rooting the persian briar grouping.