A short question to the experts:
I’m currently in the process of growing bare rooted rootstocks of Rosa canina ‘Laxa’ for a later bud grafting procedure. I normally buy them fully cultivated and developed shortly before grafting. This year I wanted to try the pre-cultivation for myself, so I am still unsure about the best and correct procedure. After potting on 20.04.2024, the sprouting has started immediately so I have well formed foliage up to over a half of the shoots from above. It would be helpful for me to know, how I can push also the sprouting on the low eyes more efficiently to achieve finally stable root growth. Can tweezing help or is simply more patience needed? Many thanks for any recommendations.
3 Likes
Some people believe that rose rootstocks should be starved before grafting so that they will accept the scion better. However, I do not share this theory and take the opposite approach with my rootstocks. In my opinion, it’s important that both the rootstock and the plant from which the scion comes are in good, healthy nutritional condition and are not exposed to stressful situations. What do you think? Are there any other arguments?
2 Likes
Agreed. The better the sap flow, the healthier the plant and more vigorously it’s growing, the faster it will accept the scion. Water stress is probably as equally responsible for graft failure as lack of cambium to cambium contact.
2 Likes
Thank you very much! That reinforces and confirms my view.
You’re welcome! Traditionally, here in the US in Wasco, CA where it gets BRUTALLY hot in summer, Dr. Huey is the primary stock used and the commercial producers flood irrigate the fields of stocks then bud in July when the heat it at its worst. The hotter and brighter the sun/heat, the more vigorously the sap flows. Huey can easily reject scions if the sap isn’t flowing at a great rate and/or when water stressed. I’m sure that has correlations in many other stocks, though the multiflora based types appear less susceptible. Ralph Moore’s Pink Clouds (Oakington Ruby X multiflora) has a significantly thicker cambium and remains in condition for budding most of the year in the California climates. There always has to be at least one exception, doesn’t there?
2 Likes