Budding on mature root stock for faster bloom in once blooming seedlings?

The wait for first bloom on once blooming seedlings can be quite long. One seedling has kept me waiting 4 years.

I was wondering if you would bud your seedling (if it is sturdy enough) in its first year upon a mature root stock, would you have a higher chance of getting first bloom the next year or at least faster than 3-4 years?

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Ralph Moore frequently budded his seedlings to not only get a faster idea what the eventual plant habit would be, but to also produce flowers earlier than he may otherwise have obtained. Budding produces plant maturity, faster.


Hi KarelBvn!
Unfortunately I do not have an answer to your specific question, but I practice and recommend budding upon a mature rootstock for once blooming seedlings in June or the first days of July at the latest. I’m trimming back the crown of the rootstock, budded and put it afterwards covered with a transparent plastic drink cup in my little glass house under light. It is important that the moisture is maintained, but also that no mold is developing inside the cup. After one week the growth begins. After three weeks the rootstock should be slowly acclimated to the drier air and outdoor climate. Now is still enough time for the development of the new shoots, which can form the flowers in the next year. This method helps to shorten the non-flowering period of cloned once flowering roses exactly by one year. If you are interested and you need any detailled informations, I will send you a few pictures.


Oh I would love to see your photodocumentation! Please send to me! :heart_eyes:

Attached you will find a short description of the mentioned method. I have been practicing this method for several years now. The photos of the two buddings are up to date. As already mentioned before, protection against dryness of the bud is very important, but too much moisture should also be avoided, as mold will be forming very qucikly.

Last but not least the timing should be chosen as early as possible. Depending on the climate zone the outside temperatures should still allow a solid growth activity after sprouting.


How much confidence did you have in the rootstock to handle the procedure? That is to say,
how long did the rootstock cuttings have to root into the grow media in those specific grow containers if you don’t mind me asking?

Do you find that using the small rootstocks result in better acceptance of the graft scion?

I have collected feral multiflora that I believe to be very healthy and unaffected by any mite activity to protect against disease transmission.I was able to harvest very large strongly rooted specimens and transplant them into containers. Each of the largest has several basal canes above the soil line. These are specimens already several years old. Will I be able to utilize each basal cane as a graft attempt? If you are comfortable opining on any experience you have had I will be satisfied and not harbor any ill regard for my own failed attempts.

I also have several air layered and well rooted Dr. Huey’s each has more than one basal cane at the soil line. Same question.

You maintain the grafted specimens in the environmental control of your living space or is this a transitional living space subject to increase humidity and outside air contact? Did prior attempts in humid air outside demonstrate increased failure? Any response is very appreciated.

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When you’re considering using “basals” from a stock plant, remember that any growth bud it contains will develop into “suckers”. It generally works more easily, more successfully, with fewer suckers, if you root sections of the stock plant then remove the growth buds from its length, except for the one or two top growth buds. I always leave at least two at the top. If you leave one, SOMETHING is going to happen to it and cause the cutting to fail. Two or more allows for a contingency should that happen. Any growth buds below where you insert the scion will become a sucker.


Many years ago, I came to know about this method and simply tried it. It worked at once. For single flowering roses it is a much better method to achieve flowering already in the next year, providing the procedure happens early enough and succeeds. For repeaters I use a mix of this method and T-budding.

Sorry, I can not answer this question. Up to now, I’m buying the Rosa ‘Laxa’ rootstock in containers of different rose nurseries. The rootstocks arrived are pretty ripe and prepared to the point that they can be used immediately. I have not had any problems so far.

I don’t know if it’s ultimately due to size. I think much more that the earlier processing allows both woods to be in a better sap flow. The controlled indoor conditions avoid additionally outdoor temperature differences and moisture fluctuations and assure a better growth and development.

A little side note: This budding method is more tolerant of very small and softer bud chips from young seedlings. Not everything succeeds in this case, but some more than with T-budding.

Two max. three weeks after budding the containers leave the indoor area and are acclimatized to the outdoor temperatures. Mild outdoor temperatures promote the plant to grow quickly and diligently so that before winter dormancy already an impressive shrub is arisen.

I would be pleased if I could help you a little with my informations.

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You did. You are always very gracious. Thank you so much. :orange_heart: :orange_heart: :orange_heart:

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I have found a new paper regarding the different characteristics of the common rootstocks. R.multiflora
is also mentioned, of course. I’m sure you’re already familiar with a lot of it, but maybe you’ll still find a valuable hint.

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