Breeding hardy yellow Climbers

David - I would be very interested in a Von Scharhorst rooted cutting. Thanks.

Is anyone using Chinatown (Columbine x Clare Grammerstorf) for yellow climbers?

Henry’s seedlings of Rosa acic. x R-15 have buds on them now, so that is also of future hope. They have Golden Showers in them, afterall.

I ordered Chinatown 2 years ago, but was sent Cocktail instead. Last year I got the replacement (supposed to be Chinatown), but it hasn’t bloomed yet. Maybe this year…

Peter

I had a hard time getting Chinatown own-root to live for me for some reason. I lost two, the original and the replacement.

I suspect the propagation material was harboring Downy Mildew or some other pathogen as it died from the top down.

I have a budded one that is quite vigorous.

I am thinking that maybe a cross of Applejack X Harrison’s Yellow?

I am working with the two… but I haven’t crossed them together.

Instead, I crossed Harrison Yellow with R. foliolosa (all of which have died…)

This year, I was thinking of a pure yellow mossy rose… So I crossed it with Goldmoss.

I have worked with Applejack both ways in hopes getting an apple scented leaves.

I got at least one very small seedling. Two years in the ground and it isn’t more than 3 inches tall. I’ve long ago left it to die, but it doesn’t.

The cross as Applejack X a possible noissette from San Juan Bautista.

I still get germination of R. eglanteria X Applejack from 2005. Infact, two of them germinated today. All of them seem have to died in the seedling stage, and I’m thinking this has to be some genetic incapability. The eglanteria was from a rootstock from my misidentified rose Sueveolens from Rosarie at the Bayfield. (Now, closed…)

I have found that Applejack is difficult because it is so fertile that the anthers drop pollen even in the tight closed bud stage. Often I have wondered if I’m raising selved seedlings.

But then again, I always rinse Applejack’s anthers right before the actual pollination. And I’m thinking that perhaps using moss roses. If I get a moss rose, then I will know it’s a hybrid and not a self seedling.

Today, I’ve made a cross of Applejack X Mutabilis.

I want to see if I can get something very odd from this cross-- like a changing color rose with some speckles on it.

I tried several pollinations on Applejack. They all started forming hips that all turned brown and fell off. Have yet to have a successful pollination on AJ. I will try it again this summer but would like some hints on what people have done to get hips to set on Applejack. It produces a lot of pollen.

Enrique, I did have a Autumn Sunset x Applejack that produced scented leaves. Was a nify deeper orangish color. Its barely alive after not fairing well after some problems last summer. Will repeat the cross this year.

Seems like Westerland might introduce some deeper coloring. There is a nice once blooming climber that is Autumn Sunset x William Baffin that Mike Lowe created. It faded quite a bit but had a fair amount of yellow in it and was hardy. Plan to replace mine if Ashdowns ever offers it again. It was a poor seed parent but produced pollen. Seems like it could be useful to cross it with a rose like Chinatown.

Chinatown is one of the Yellow climber types that I really want to work with. I had one that was budded that died back and only the root stock grew back. I should have one in the next couple of weeks. I will replace my Lichkonigan Lucia next year that I left in Nebraska when I moved. LL has a fairly nice yellow but seems to fade a little. Any comments on Chinatown and how well its yellow lasts? I think Chinatown looks like a nifty rose and I am excited to see how it works with roses like Applejack, Glenn Dale and Golden Glow.

If there was one thing that I wished for Buck roses it would be that they held thier color better.

Would like to try both Cal Polly and Ty with my hardy roses. Have no idea if Ty is fertile. Both seem to have a good non fading yellow. I hope that at least a certain percentage of the offspring are not minitures.

One thing I have a problem with is that all my most hardy roses work as pollen parent but very few of them work the other way around. Thats why I hope to figure out how to get better hip set on Applejack.

Would like to get a Applejack x Beauty of Leafland. Going to try Ross Rambler with Golden Glow and hope to get a partially fertile triploid.

‘Goldbusch’ is the seed parent for ‘Applejack’ and it’s fertile. It’s is out of ‘Golden Glow’.

Goldbusch and Golden Glow are both good candidates for a hardy yellow climber.

I got my first seedling out of ‘Goldbusch’ this season that looks like it will repeat.

I’m going to try to get a repeater out of Henry’s Rugelda x R15 this year. Hopefully I can blend the offspring together.

Link: www.helpmefind.com/rose/pl.php?n=49463&tab=1

I have a few Morden Sunrise x William Baffin seedlings this spring. The oldest one is definitiely going to be a climber, thorny too. They might be a step towards this goal. I’ve ordered Roberta Bondar from Hortico this season, it was developed by Joyce Fleming. Joyce has not used it as a seed parent, but has a friend who has used it sucessfully.

Liz

I’m using ‘Roberta Bondar’ now. The stigma look odd. I am pollinating them anyway, and using the pollen, just in case.

It’s a beautiful thing, a deep rich yellow and VERY vigorous.

Excellent Robert, let me know how it sets hips. I saw the original plant in Joyce’s front yard and it is a beautiful rose. If I use mine for anything this year it will be strickly as a pollen parent.

I found a yellow kordesii in the 1984 American Rose Annual called Soeur Kristin by John James. The lineage is:

Blanche Mallerin x [Kordesii x (Van Bergen x Soeur Therese)]

What happened to John James roses? He had a lot of cool species hybrids.

Liz, I think you’ll not get much from Roberta Bondar as a pollen parent. If you pull the petals away from the pistils (and that may take some care), you can get a fair number of seeds per hip (perhaps 20+), but the hips sometimes drop. Not an automatic mother, but an occasional mother. I still don’t know whether its offspring are any better than those of its mother, but I do have a seedling under the lights, probably Roberta Bondar x R15.

Jadae,

Apparently John James’s family was not as into roses as he was. I wrote to the son-in-law some time back, and he indicated that James’s varieties were not available–or something to that effect.

Peter

Many years ago I did a fair amount with goldbusch and golden glow. I still have an everblooming offspring of goldbusch, which I call evergold. It has a lovely color, but holds petals only 2 days in our climate, gets blackspot like anything and isn’t very winter hardy, say 5 above 0 for no damage. But I use it as a pollen source anyway for the color. And have put pollen on it with not much success. So yes you can definitely get some fraction of recurrent bloomers from goldbusch.

“The obvious next step is to cross Rosa laxa with ‘Hazeldean’ hybrids and develop suitable breeding lines.”

My quote of August 24/2003.

Although I wrote that nearly four years ago, I haven’t changed my mind. In fact, more than ever I’m convinced that’s the way to go.

I think of Griffith Buck and his cross of ‘Josef Rothmund’ and Rosa laxa. It led to the development of some great quality, relatively cold hardy shrub roses. I think of where we would be now in the development of cold hardy, yellow shrub roses if he would/could have used a yellow cultivar comparable to ‘Josef Rothmund’ and crossed it with Rosa laxa.

Rosa laxa is an underrated species in the development of cold hardy roses. Whether it is via ‘Suzanne’ or used by itself, it’s been highly important to the development of pink and red roses that can be grown successfully in the Northern Great Plains region. There is no reason, since the species has white flowers, why the same thing can’t be done for the colour yellow in roses.

It’s not that yellow roses cannot be developed for growing in cold (Zone 3) regions. They have been (‘Morden Sunrise’, ‘Topaz Jewel’). The problem is to develop cultivars having good disease resistance. I think Rosa laxa might be the missing ingredient in the recipe, so to speak, for a high quality, cold hardy yellow rose. It’s a tough, disease resistant species that has proved itself. But we will only find this out, of course, if breeders focusing on developing cold hardy Yellows go to work with this species. Let’s at least start with ‘Morden Sunrise’ x Rosa laxa and then take it from there.

Larry, what was the cross you used to get “Evergold”?

The Bayse’s Legacy hybrids should help with blackspot reistance.

Maybe I should stop now and see how disease resistant my currents seedlings are?

Peter, well that is not exactly what I wanted to hear, but it fits with Robert’s comment about the stigma looking a bit odd. It does sound like getting pollen is possible.

Liz

Evergold was probably (almost certainly)OP, which is why I didn’t specify. I believe I was simply asking if Goldbusch carried remontancy genes in a recessive state so they would have some frequency of expression in selfs. At the time I got that plant I was not keeping detailed crossing notes. I also got a very nice once-blooming climber that I called yellowbush. I lost it some years later from neglect and insufficient winter and drought hardiness. It would not set seed worth anything. Evergold is a fair mother but the seeds are poor germinaters. Pollen is good.

Wow Paul. I sure agree that R. laxa is a great species and can contribute disease resistance and extreme hardiness to modern roses. We had a terrible cold snap here last week in MN. Roses were starting to grow and buds were a half of an inch or so for the ones furthest along. Wow, most seem severely damaged and many will not recover. My seedling of a yellow mini by a cross of R. virginiana x R. laxa is just fine- to the tip as usual. It is an apricot colored climber with some repeat like R. laxa.

I think the “repeat” bloom or a little rebloom later in the season may be somewhat dominant. No other R. virginiana descendants from my R. virg. have reflowered. I raised some op seeds (seem like selfs) of the R. virg x R. laxa clone (reflowers some too) and have a new selection with better reflowering and even better disease resistance. I’m excited to pollinate repeat flowering warm colored roses with it this spring. I think that combining R. virg and R. laxa have been nice to draw out warm colors. Joyce Fleming and Kathy Zuzek have seedlings with R. virginiana where warm colors come through more readily and it has been suggested this pink species is able to do that than others. I should focus on using my hardy apricot climber more in crosses this year too. It is a better male than female, like these species roses.

Sincerely,

David

David Ziesak,

One of your R virg X R laxa op seeds germinated last November, and is now growing vigorously. Can’t wait to do some breeding with it, maybe get some seedlings with fall repeat.

Correction: those seeds were R virg X R laxa, not (R virg X R laxa)op.