I am trying to learn how to root rose cuttings, so far with a zero success rate, and would appreciate advice and suggestions from anyone with experience.
I also have some particular questions after my failed attempts:
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Is there such a thing as too much humidity?
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How can I best discourage mold growth before it starts, or kill it without hurting the cutting?
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I have used liquid “Dip & Grow” following the instructions for a 10/1 dilution, 5/1 dilution, and in desperation, undiluted, for approximately 5 seconds. Is there any way to make this stuff work, or do I need a different rooting hormone?
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How should I do things differently with dormant cuttings versus summer cuttings? I have tried both.
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All of my cuttings have rotted. Most have showed some leaf bud growth activity 5-10 days after I started them, but then fizzled. Is this due to moisture? Temperature?
I look forward to any advice readers may be able to offer.
Thank you!
Ruth Wiechmann, South Dakota
As I was learning to root roses, I found the most important thing (for me anyway) was to make sure that the soil was not too moist. I ended up using a modified baggie method with the roses in pots. The soil was regular potting mix with 25% to 50% of perlite mixed in. I would make up my soil several days in advance and let it sit in a sealed container until I had the correct moisture level. That was where a handful of the soil would just barely hold together if squeezed. I found it was usually better to ere on the side of slightly too dry than slightly too wet.
I put cuttings in seedling mix in the fall. I get a huge root success with very little work. They go dormancy with the big roses and come out of dormancy beginning their root calluses.
I do the standard way for early summer cuttings, but I prefer the fall method due to easiness. This, however, will probably not work in frozen or desert (extreme) areas.
I have tried rooting roses several times over the past several years. This is the first time I have had success. I rooted them in a sterilite 12 Qt. container. I used regular potting soil. I did use a rooting hormone. I used plastic wrap to cover the top of the container. The container was placed under florescent lights. The onlydifference between this attempt and others is that I used fall rose wood and I added bottom heat using a heating pad that was designed for seed trays. I think the heating pad has helped alot but I do not know how much. I may be wrong maybe the fall wood is what has produced success.
My only problem has been that my container has too much moisture at times. But I just vent it out by pulling back the plastic when needed. I hope this helps. I been experimenting as of late in the wonderful world of rose culture. I have more experience elsewhere in the horticultural world.
Hello Ruth,
Check out my :
“Own Root Cuttings Setup Gallery” with detailed comments and info for each of the 30 images.
Also see my Q&A Page for more info and some answers to frequently asked questions. In addition, there is a link to see the comments for all the images on one page.
Remember, I am propagating minis and Mini-Floras only, in the basement under growing lights “ALL” winter long and my success rate is 99 to 100 percent.
Here a comment by Ram Shoor :
“Brilliantly illustrated. Best illustration seen on the web”
Link: www3.telus.net/georgemander/galleries/own_root.html
I have to echo Joan’s comments. Too much moisture will rot your cuttings. Also it’s important to keep them out of the sun or hot light bulbs if you are using a plasic bag over them because you will cook them. Personally, I don’t use hormones at all anymore and I get a decent success rate.
As far as dormant cuttings, I just shove hardwood stems in the soil in the fall, in the same pot as the mother plant, or in 1-5 gallon pots, and make sure the soil doesn’t dry out too much. I keep them where they get morning sun only and in an area where there is lots of foliage from other plants which will keep the humidity high. Our nighttime low temperatures don’t get much below 26 degrees though.
About 25%-30% take for me.
And I’ll echo Joan and Judith! Too much moisture in the medium has always been my biggest mistake! If I had a nickel for every cutting I’ve rotted from making the medium too wet…
My best luck has been when I’ve used 50% sand 50% barely moist potting soil in a 2-gallon ziplock bag and told myself “Don’t add ANY water!” It should seem pretty dry - mine doesn’t hold together at all. In a sealed plastic bag you really don’t need much moisture in the “soil”.
I’ve also had decent luck with just shoving sticks in the ground in the fall.
Wishing you much better luck than I’ve had! Tom
I root cuttings in Fall, no hormones. I stick em and forget em in an area where they get automatic irrigation. MOST will root this way. If you are doing just a few, sticking them at the base of an existing rose works very well.
Lots of propagation articles found at this link including one by the late great Mel Hulse.
ENJOY!
Link: ars.org/About_Roses/propagation.html
One day I’m going to get me a misting setup. Until then I enjoy a fairly decent success rate just by using a glass jar filled with fresh rain water (very important!..never, EVER TAP or POND!) and an old tall aquarium. Spring works best and the location in the yard is also very important. I’ve tried several places but the one that works the best has filtered shade/sun and a burst of west sun at the end of the day. If algae grows in the water before roots appear, I go ahead and pot them in river sand which usually works. Some varieties DON’T work this way but I usually get 80% I guess.
What a wonderful use for empty soda bottles! Fabulous, I’ll have to try that!
I used to use the plastic bag method but cats kept happening to the bags; evidently they are comfy when squashed. Now that I have the greenhouse I’m going to try rooting cuttings with a misting system; the greenhouse will only get mid-morning sun in the summer where it is.
My setup is almost the same as George Manders. I can’t say I got 90% but I do get around 60 to 70%.
Hello again Ruth,
Here are some answers to your questions from # 1 to # 5.
“A” : my opinion, (not everybody’s of course)
YOU WROTE :
“I also have some particular questions after my failed attempts”
- Is there such a thing as too much humidity?
“A” : As you have seen in my setup, lots of condensation inside the tent (or whatever you use !) is OK, (but the mix) medium in the pots, cups or whatever you use, should not be soaking wet. “DO NOT” use any so-called potting soil, even if it says sterilized ! If you do not have the # 4 MIX I use, then 50/50 perlite/peat is OK. “DO NOT USE VERMICULITE” in the mix, as Mr. Miniature, Ralph Moore told me once.
- How can I best discourage mold growth before it starts, or kill it without hurting the cutting?
“A” : If mold starts to grow it’s to late (for me) and I would start over again.
If you start clean and sterile as in my instructions you will never ever have any mold growth. In the beginning (early nineties) I used bamboo skewer sticks which got moldy because these were treated with some chemical. I now only use plastic or stainless steel to hold up my tent so it does not touch any foliage.
- I have used liquid “Dip & Grow” following the instructions for a 10/1 dilution, 5/1 dilution, and in desperation, undiluted, for approximately 5 seconds. Is there any way to make this stuff work, or do I need a different rooting hormone?
“A” : I never ever used “Dip & Grow”. Just use the rooting hormone I suggest in my “Q” & “A” page.
- How should I do things differently with dormant cuttings versus summer cuttings? I have tried both.
“A” : I have tried dormant cuttings in the early nineties, but gave up, as I never got more than 25 to 40 percent rooted.
- All of my cuttings have rotted. Most have showed some leaf bud growth activity 5-10 days after I started them, but then fizzled. Is this due to moisture? Temperature?
“A” : # 1) Temperature 70 to 74 F. MAX – Cleanliness, Cleanliness !! clean tools, pots etc.
2) Too much moisture ? I water my pots only once really good before sticking cuttings, squeeze the water out from 4 sides at the bottom and let the pots sit for 2 hrs. and shake out any water at the bottom. “NO MORE WATERING AFTER” ! only once a week or so I take the plastic tent off for checking and mist the leaves a bit. Use super healthy foliage only ! If there is a fallen leaf (which I seldom have) I take it out before it gets moldy.
Good luck
George Mander
Link: www3.telus.net/georgemander/
Ruth - Their are many successful methods of root propagation and many will work. Just as a doctor prepare for surgery cleanliness is very important. The same applies to rooting roses and other plants. My program is quite simple using bottoms cut out of 2 liter pop bottles, a rooting jell, 2 gal pot, a good potting mix and patience. I always wear Nitril gloves when propagating or budding plants as I feel the sweaty oil from your hands can contaminate the plant wound. Use a very healthy cutting(free from any disease) when propagating.I always insert 2 cuttings in each pot so if one fails chances are the other will root. I cover my cuttings with shade cloth so the are not exposed to direct sunlight when starting. But most important of all have your equipment clean. I have a large pail with a mild solution of clean water/bleach to dip my pots , knife and other equipment needed. Always use clean paper towels to wipe propagating equipment clean. Remember anything worth having is worth doing correctly.
Have a great day.