I started to see germination last week. Its weird something out of Hazeldean is among the first to germinate at least from what I have heard about it.
5 Carefree Beauty x Sterling Silver
1 Ross Rambler x Hazeldean
3 (R. folioiolosa x R. woodsii) x Scabrosa
7 R. glauca x (R. foliolosa x purple pavement)
15 Ann Endt x Newport Fairy
Hopefully many of these prove to be true crosses and not apomixis seeds.
It turned rather warm here shortly after planting, with day temps in the seventies to high eighties and evenings in the mid forties to mid sixties. Seedlings began popping from the ground in rather short order. Now, there is another “cold front” with temps ranging from the low forties to high sixties and they’re shooting out of the ground quite well.
Cathy,
It took approx 3 1/2 weeks for my first seeds to show up this year-this is in the baggies with vermiculite and calcium nitrate, which may speed things up and some of the seeds had been in the fridge for as long as 10-12 weeks but without calcium nitrate. Yours have been in the ground for what looks to be 3 1/2 weeks now. I would not get anxious quite yet. It does take a few more days for a sprout to push through the soil than to show up as a sprouted cotyledon in a baggie, also. The first seedlings to sprout for me this yr were some seeds that were left over from last yr., and I was in the process of throwing most of them out when I noticed the sprouts. These had been sitting in dry vermiculite since late last spring. Most seeds sprout when they are ready and have their own time table. All we have are the average times of sprouting, and several recommendations of best practices but this also includes to many variables to mention.
Loved to see how that cross turns out Rob 
Will post pics as things progress lafllin
Scarlet Pavement × Rosa laotieshanensis
Unfortunately, most seedings of this cross are very weak, like this:
Any chance that might have been given too much nitrogen? Those leaves seem burned by fertilizer or by too much sunshine (sunburned when moved outdoors too quickly from a protected indoor place, either under lights or behind a protective window).
Peter
That was my first thought, too, Peter. The plant doesn’t look “weak” at all. It does look injured, either by drying out, being burned by too high heat or sun (perhaps too close to a hotter window or other light source?), fed too dry or with too high concentration of fertilizer? Perhaps there might also be mites?
Peter, roseseek, I keep all my seedings indoor and all in same conditions (light,fertilizer,water) .
Only seedings of this cross have this kind of “bad” performance. Maybe because I always water after the soil become dry completely, and the seedings cannot stand this degree of dry (just like their father——“Rosa laotieshanensis”)? And I’m sure no mites under their leaves.
My typical h.rugosa：
That makes it sound as though that species and its hybrids are much more susceptible to water stress induced foliage issues. In my conditions, that would make it unsuitable for use. Water stress is the norm here.
[quote=“Ophiophagus hannah”]Peter, roseseek, I keep all my seedings indoor and all in same conditions (light,fertilizer,water) .
Only seedings of this cross have this kind of “bad” performance. Maybe because I always water after the soil become dry completely, and the seedings cannot stand this degree of dry (just like their father——“Rosa laotieshanensis”)? And I’m sure no mites under their leaves.
[/quote]
Several years ago I had quite a number of seedlings which were essentially Rosa multiflora (from the HMsk Kathleen OP). These burned badly under my fluorescent lights. At the time, I thought that the problem might be related to the fertilizer I was using–its nitrogen was entirely ammoniacal in origin. I switched to a fertilizer which got most of its nitrogen from nitrates, and the problems with the leaves decreased. Once the seedlings were outdoors, they had no leaf problems except for the deer that fed on them.
Peter
Thanks Peter. That foliage issue really does impress me as being ammonia burn.
In addition to the possible sensitivity to ammonia, the speed at which these seedlings take up the water (and thus the fertilizer), because they are allowed to go completely dry, would be an additional factor causing the burn. Switching to a program of not allowing them to go ‘completely dry’ and using a nitrate based (nitrogen) fertilizer should help greatly until they can go outdoors and into the ground.
Peter, I have move those “bad” seedings away from light, hope their new leaves are more Healthy. I fertilize with Scotts and Osmocote, don’t know if their nitrogen are from nitrates. There is no deer here but sparrows like to pull off new seedings and flung them aside.
There are different formulas of Scott’s and of Osmocote, but Osmocote in general has a high percentage of urea and ammonium compounds. I’d expect the same of Scott’s various blends. The label should give percentages, but if it doesn’t you can use the internet to look up the percentages for the fertilizers you have. It’s very difficult to find fertilizer with nitrates from potassium nitrate.
Here is information re, two Osmocote products:
http://www.scotts.com/smg/products/osmocote/PDF/Osmocote%20-%20F%20_%20V%20Product%20Page.pdf
Peter
Four posts with bird netting made for fruit trees over them will keep the birds off your seedlings, squirrels also.
Thanks Peter, I use Osmocote A2, 325S, and Scott’s No.12.
They have more ‘K’ than other formulas. Maybe I should try other formulas.
Four posts with bird netting made for fruit trees over them will keep the birds off your seedlings, squirrels also.[/quote]
Thanks Charles, I will try this method.
Spring has sprung, sort of… A couple of crosses are germinating. Prairie celebration x (outta the blue x baby love). The pollen parent is a salmon floribunda with decent disease resistance. The other batch that is popping up is Everest Double Fragrance x (Carefree Beauty x Pretty Lady). The pollen parent is a light pink agressive shrub with decent disease resistance.
And then there are 2 batches of tree seeds starting to germinate, yellow wood and kentucky coffee tree seedlings. Now if it would only stop snowing. Things could get a bit crowded down in the basement.