AOE - Award of Excellence, to Spray or Not to Spray

I agree with much of what you’ve said, Don, but the results presented at the GROTW event for David Austin suggested there was very little over lap in resistance between populations, showing a just a few which had some degree of resistance. I wish I had the information that was presented there so I could state which ones were presented as most resistant to the greatest number of strains. Applejack was the one those results showed had the greatest resistance to the greatest number of populations.

I’ve not seen any discussion whether or not any resistance to the US populations offers any resistance to those from elsewhere. I agree that reading the results of foreign testing is interesting, until how they relate to OUR strains is determined, I don’t hold them of any realistic value to any breeding I might attempt. Seeking out those with resistance to more US populations and which share as few ancestors with anything Knock Out so breeding them together represents as little inbreeding as possible seems more beneficial to my logic and understanding. It should also be much more possible as those varieties would be MUCH easier to obtain, where obtaining most of the European and all Australian varieties require much time and many hoops to be jumped through.

Great discussions.

Although race make up differs in different locations and changes at any locality over time as well, that just emphasizes the value and importance of horizontal resistance. We can be easily disappointed when we rest our hopes on just simple, single gene vertical resistances that can break down quickly. Roses look great typically without any black spot at all with that vertical resistance, and then can fall apart quickly when a race with the right key comes that can unlock that gene and cause disease on that plant.

In order to test for horizontal resistance, we need races that can overcome any vertical resistance in order for us to see infection on our roses. Then, we can compare relative progression and extent of black spot on roses growing under similar conditions in order to distinguish which have relatively more or less horizontal resistance. If the environment is very conducive to black spot for instance, roses may all end up not looking so good, but it is those that take longer to get to that point that are valuable. Under less favorable conditions for black spot, it should be those with greater horizontal resistance that would likely still hold up better.

For the most part in our research, a group of roses that are able to be infected by a range of races, tend to have very similar relative responses to the races. For instance, The Fairy and Lena were able to be infected by the three races we published on in HortScience and consistently had the smallest lesion sizes across all three races. Other roses susceptible to multiple races, also had generally similar relative rank across races.

The key in field evaluations is to try to ensure we have races able to infect all the roses in order to be able to strip away the vertical resistance and measure the horizontal resistance. When we have a rose that gets no black spot at all, that doesn’t confidently give us information about the underlying horizontal resistance. With races traveling through commerce, etc. someday a race will come that can infect. For instance, in the international host set used there were no roses that were not infected by at least one race. There were also a couple different isolates from the US (ACT) and the UK (DA1) that were collapsed into the same race based on infection patterns. There was at least another example of the same across a couple countries in Europe too.

So how can we try to encourage a situation with multiple races at trial sites? Releasing the characterized races is not acceptable to APHIS as they would need to cross state lines at some point. We can also plant key cultivars from the international host differential with unique infection patterns. If all show some black spot we know we likely have some race diversity, if not we know we have a limited number in the garden at the time. Additionally, in the Earth-Kind trial I care for at UMore park, there is a large unsprayed rose garden. I recognize there are multiple races due to key roses all having some infection. Over time race diversity builds it seems in unsprayed gardens. Having a good source of innoculum nearby in established beds is helpful when we plant new gardens / trial beds and want to evaluate resistance. It seems soon after planting a new rose collection, the diversity of black spot takes time to build. This is talked about by some breeders. As they put in a new crop of seedlings it can take some time for different forms of black spot to get into the area and ultimately infect the range of roses with susceptibility. Some breeders lace new beds with leaves from more established beds to help with that transition and get more diversity. I suspect we can do this at least as we are not moving races across state lines which APHIS wants to restrict. Perhaps with regular spraying all the other roses nearby, this limits the reproduction and housed diversity of black spot and likely limits our capacity to screen for resistance in trial beds.

About trial sites they should not be better than garden roses users conditions. Wide apart plantings with the best at rose deseases resistance as neighbours is something I saw advised for growing successfully the more desease susceptible OGRs.

You say: “Over time race diversity builds it seems in unsprayed gardens”. Me too I think diversity builds up but not virulence. With diversity the best at competing with other same species or not and with antagonists are prevalent, not the more damaging and virulent that are usually more fit at pioneering.

As desease have a high hability to evolve new strains; that “in the international host set used there were no roses that were not infected by at least one race.” points to the fact absolute = vertical resistance is a lure.

I fully agree your discourse about horizontal resistance and will paraphrase and continue it with my own words and experience.

Very few species are immune but all were able to prosper for millenaries at native place and beyond.



Horizontal resistance is the sort centuries old (how many?) Old Blush displays. Spread all over the world roses southern limit climates. This southern limit being a desease barrier.

Never immune from BS and PM and always thriving!

This is a never broken relative = horizontal resistance…

the genes of which are prevalent in all modern roses ancestry

Spraying and greenhouse pedigree breeding we selected for vertical resistance and horizontal one was lost

I like the idea that plants themselfs can overcome adversity. In one case plants are grown in enclosed containers and vented to the next while the first plant is under attack with pheromones passed to the next one. Another case, cuttings of new growth where taken till the ninth round achieved good fertility. Neil

I have been reading over the months about the various strains of BS in the USA alone , this does not include Europe, but may be similar. It sort of makes you wonder if the strains of BS have been around in seclude little natural niches waiting for the chance to evolve.

The rosaceae family seems to be Northern Hemisphere located, and what I have said in the previous paragraph about niches, natural species may have evolved in combating one or more types of fungus problems, but they themselves may be infected with a type which is not temperamental to their growth and are isolated in their own niche.

Probably what I am trying to say is, maybe due to use of multiple species types over the last 20 or so years, it may have opened up the lid to Pandora’s box releasing different strains of BS. Remember what happed when they used R. foetida and that is one species which introduced one type of BS into roses.

Does it make you think.

Exactly, Warren. It does seem ironic to me that here, Foetida is completely clean in most situations. It doesn’t GET our black spot, but the “confused” foliage its offspring are burdened with are martyrs to it, where conditions are right. The only thing that ever made sense to me was conflicting genetic instructions.

You take any short season, deciduous species, with its 'wait to push out those leaves, use them up quickly and dump them" instructions, whether it’s due to drought, sufficient freezing or the fungal triggers provided to force the plant to harden off for winter. Mix with long season, ever green types with their instructions to gradually create foliage meant to last a whole season/year, before sufficient plant growth shadows them, when they are reabsorbed and shed, often with little fungal intervention required. What resulted were plants, selected for their “beauty”, novelty, “pretty face” instead of health and longevity outside of their initial selection climate and conditions, reacting to climatic, cultural conditions and situations which triggered their natural predispositions to defoliate. Their “instructions” told them to hurry and push the leaves, use them up quickly (short season) on plants which were “told” to hang on to their leaves because they would need them a long time (ever green). Very confused immune and operating systems.

Many species have evolved utilizing fungal attacks to help them survive. Nutkana and Arkansana develop rust later in their seasons, causing them to defoliate. Makes sense. Their climates usually don’t provide rainfall that late in their seasons to help them maintain their foliage and immune systems in healthy states. Dropping the foliage “early”, prevents them from continuing to attempt growing into weather conditions which would result in their becoming so water stressed, they would defoliate in an attempt to not die from it, which would probably sufficiently weaken them, preventing them from hardening off in order to withstand colder winter weather. Arkansana can be forced to rust, even on brand new foliage, simply by water stressing it. I’ve done it. Increasing the water permitted it to generate new, uninfected foliage. Withholding water stimulated that new foliage to rust and fall. Providing more water stimulated formation of new, uninfected foliage. Putting them in climates which don’t require the fungal attacks to defoliate them for survival, extends the time the plant is triggered to maintain foliage cover well past the useful life, into ‘senility’, when infection is a given without chemical intervention.

Rugosa and many close hybrids, are terrible in this climate. Rust and black spot infections are heavy, I believe for several reasons. The season is too long, triggering the plant to hold the foliage well into senility when it’s most susceptible. The weather conditions are conducive to infection at the time the foliage is sufficiently senile to become infected. Nothing in this climate triggers the plant to shed the senile foliage other than fungal infection. “Confuse” the genetic instructions further by adding additional layers of conflicting triggers and responses, and it only gets worse. Conrad Ferdinand Meyer will rust on new foliage nearly as soon as it unfurls most years and can’t be sprayed. Chemicals applied to Rugosa foliage will cause it to yellow and fall without fungal attack, yet without them, the fungal attacks are nearly a given. Hybrids from him are almost as bad in many instances. Tamora, though drop dead gorgeous, when she’s gorgeous, is as rusty here as Simplicity, as are the others bred from Meyer. I haven’t encountered a sufficiently distant descendant of his to break that reaction.

Take Tamora out of this zone 10a environment and put her in zone 9a with its greater aridity, hotter summers and colder (by just a bit, but colder) winters, and the reaction is tremendously reduced. Meyer, Lipton, both Roserie’s and most other Rugosa hybrids in the zone 9a gardens behaved quite badly. Rugosa itself was far less inclined to contract fungal issues in zone 9a. There were more natural triggers to shed the foliage once sufficiently senile combined with greater aridity to prevent infection. Dry the climate out more and increase the extremity between summer and winter, and it appears they behave much more as historically expected. Level it all out, and they are miserable.

Add immature plants with their undeveloped immune systems; evolutionary vertical resistance (no horizontal resistance was necessary nor really possible, partly due to geographic isolation); over crowding in many gardens with artificial obstacles to air circulation and increased humidity from transpiration and irrigation; higher nutrient levels, often much higher than necessary and frequently sufficient to force growth far past the efficiency of the plant’s “instructions”; to the “confused programming” artificially bred into the plants, often half of which contains far too much inbred material, to the wrong climate, wrong plant and it’s Zazu Pitts, a nervous break down looking for a place to happen.

So what it boils down to is, breeding with evergreen types (eg.) R. laevigata. R. bracteata. R. Gigantea

, pure China’s and Tea’s . There are probably other evergreen species types out there. Using these in a pure breeding line should give no rust or BS problems, but you would have to use Tea’s and China’s which have no other , but asian blood lines, otherwise you back to where you started.

Banksias :slight_smile:

You know Michael I have never tried using banksia roses, I think what has put me off was the difficulty in achieving offspring. Those big bracts of bloom makes you want to try though.

Theyre evergreen and clean, sans for a rare mildew year, here. However, this is a blackspot niche.

Yes, the seeds and blooms are the barrier. It is like working with a micromini… except 20’ longer :slight_smile:

Which type would, I feel, depend upon what climate you’re breeding for. More deciduous types if you’re in a drier summer/fall, colder winter. Evergreen if you’re winters aren’t as severe with more continuous or regular rains. Combining the two in cases of greatly improved performance (health) such as with Legacy. It isn’t perfect, but the thing is healthy and helps eliminate prickles. Not absolutes and I’m sure everyone will discover exceptions, but a rule of thumb which just makes increasing sense the more evidence I see. Of course, it’s all very climate dependent. Climate triggers, weather supporters/inhibitors, species selection all make tremendous differences, but for longer, hotter, wetter climates, using arctic hardy, deciduous species just doesn’t make sense, even the ones I’ve played with, in most cases. What benefit is breeding for Sri Lanka using Acicularis? What would you hope to obtain breeding for Manchuria using Laevigata?

Banksia is an interesting nut. It seems no matter what it chooses to cross with, the offspring are martyrs to mildew. Robert has demonstrated some outgrow it, but I have five from the same cross, (Loving Touch X Country Dancer) X Lutescens, which are crosses from their appearance and addiction to mildew. I have no idea if they will outgrow it. Perhaps if there was open ground in which to plant them and let them develop, they might. It’s definitely one I would only use for pollen as it frequently takes too long for germination otherwise, and only IF you get seed set. Very tiny hips, very difficult to find in a mass of growth. Better to put it on something more controllable so you deal with the huge plant once to collect pollen, then with your mini or whatever for hips.

Warren, your spot on about the evergreen type for my eco system. It took three years but now I have a group to work with. These on a scale 1 as bad to 10 as good are running 8-10. The award winning roses run about 2. Now I’m interested in some seedling HTs that constantly loose thier leaves but still grow to three foot and more in two years and set seed. This last group are real dogs but have vigor. Something to play around with. Neil